10/10/26

This fall, there are more bare patches than usual on our pasture. Some of them are covered with algae. Apparently, the surface of these patches has hardened to the point that no seeds can germinate there. These patches may form on old molehills or in areas where the grass cover isn’t dense enough. Rain falling directly onto the ground can „break up“ small soil aggregates, allowing the fine particles to penetrate the soil pores. Furthermore, algae and other microorganisms find favorable growing conditions on exposed soil surfaces when the animals graze the grass down low and fertilize the area with their droppings. In addition, there has been plenty of sunshine this year, which has dried out and hardened these areas covered only by a crust.

In other areas, the grass has died, but the ground is still covered. In September, I pulled up the grass in a few spots (it came out very easily) and found the larvae of the garden foliage beetle near the roots.

In May, the beetles had swarmed over our pasture and were also found in large numbers in the animals’ water troughs. At that time, I had already tried to identify the beetle using the internet and concluded it was the garden foliage beetle. Given the large number of beetles, I had already feared damage to the grass. Now, in October, the larvae appear to have migrated to deeper layers of soil. Fortunately, the damaged areas aren’t as extensive as the sheer number of beetles would have suggested.

We are currently considering the best way to fill in the gaps in the pasture. In the spring, we could break up the crusts with a weed harrow and level the molehills at the same time. This would certainly also break up the dead grass cover, providing better conditions for the seeds to germinate.

Liming the soil could help reduce algae growth relative to that of grasses, since algae have a competitive advantage over grasses in an acidic environment. We had already begun liming because our soil sample (just one sample) showed a pH of 4.6. This value is significantly below the recommended levels. Liming is also intended to improve the soil’s crumb structure, and grasses can absorb nutrients more effectively at a higher pH level.

With regard to the beetles, it is recommended to avoid overgrazing the areas, especially in May and June. When the grass grows taller, the female beetles have a harder time laying their eggs.

In general, we try to promote soil life by adding organic matter. This should improve soil structure over the long term, make the soil looser, and provide better growing conditions for our pasture plants.

For this reason, we began producing what is known as Johnson-Su compost last year, which is particularly rich in microorganisms. We had actually planned to spread a filtrate made from this compost over the entire pasture this year. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time to do so.

So two weeks ago, I decided on the spot to use a wheelbarrow and shovel to spread the contents of our first Johnson-Su compost bin, focusing mainly on the bare spots in the pasture.

24/3/26

Over the weekend, we picked up compost from the recycling center and spread it on the beds for the heavy feeders (zucchini, pumpkin, white cabbage) as well as in the greenhouse. Over the last five years, we have picked up several trailer loads of municipal compost. In the long run, we mainly want to use our own home-produced compost, but so far we don't have that much of it, and sometimes the quality isn't so good for the kitchen garden because it contains a lot of weed seeds.

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Right now, we have four different ways of composting ourselves.
Our kitchen waste and small parts of the garden waste, which does not contain many seeds, go into a composter that we inherited from our predecessors. We don't pay much attention to correct filling here because we usually don't use this material directly, but rather as a starter for the next stage.

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The majority of our garden waste ends up in self-made pallet bins. Since we don't water these and the bins are open at the top, it takes quite a long time for the coarse material to break down. After that, however, the compost is nice and loose. We mainly use this compost around our planted fruit trees in the fruit garden to improve the soil a bit and suppress the growth of grasses, etc., under the layer of compost.

I use leaf compost for mixing my seed-starting soil. I rake up the leaves in autumn and pile them into one of the compost bins. They stay in there for at least a year. After that, the collapsed mass is moved into a small wire bin so that the large bin is free again. The material stays in the wire bin for another year before it is sifted. In the post from February 26, 2026, I describe how the potting soil is mixed.

Last year in May, we started a new method of composting based on the so-called „Johnson-Su“ compost, though slightly simplified. Here, air is supplied through tubes, and the material is sprinkled with water daily. This is intended to promote a large number of beneficial microorganisms over a period of at least one year.

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The Johnson-Su goes with garden waste, old straw and hay, as well as kitchen compost and compost from our pallet boxes that has not yet completely decomposed. Actually, almost any organic material can go in there.

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